Forget what you know about barbecue

By Chris McGregor

Robert Belcham

VANCOUVER—The trio of partners behind Campagnolo, Campagnolo Roma and the now closed Refuel, Robert Belcham, Tom Doughty and Ted Anderson, are taking a shot at southern barbecue. But this is no average barbecue food; this version has an Asian twist.

The restaurant, with a planned late April opening on Powell Street in the downtown eastside, goes by the name Fat Dragon Bar-B-Que, in tribute to the Asian flavours.

“We’ve always wanted to have barbecue, but never found a way to set apart from other people,” said Anderson, the restaurant’s executive chef and partner.

“With regular American barbecue, food is cooked low and slow using beef or pork. Then it is served with corn bread, or coleslaw. Rather than have those accompaniments with it, we are focusing on Asia.”

Tom Doughty

Dishes on the menu include thick cut Szechuan peppercorn cured pork belly, served with meat drippings and white bread; smoked pig’s snout fried rice, with vegetables, crispy garlic and scallions; whole steamed seabass with shaved vegetables and banana leaf; red curry smoked Polderside Farms duck, with lychee, kaffir lime and steamed buns; and half-smoked and roasted pig’s head, with bean sprout kimchi, iceberg lettuce and scallions.

“We’re not trying to be traditional Asian. There are a couple of places in Vancouver that are serving a modern interpretation of Asian food; places like Bao Bei and Maenam. They are definitely authentic. We are not.”

Anderson said he worked in Japan for a year, so has exposure to the food there, and he’s been looking forward to cooking some of those dishes again. Entrée prices range from seven dollars to $60.

Ted Anderson

Adam Johnson will take care of the day-to-day cooking at Fat Dragon, which has seating for 50 in the 900-square-foot dining room. The 100-year-old space will have an 18-foot bar, and long tables and benches for family–style dining.

Anderson said designer Marc Bricault has recreated the look of a 1920s opium den with 13-foot ceilings, original brick and 18-inch solid fir beans on the ceiling.

The beverage list is mostly made up of cocktails and mixed drinks, but a few wine choices will be available.

“Bourbon and barbecued meat is delicious,” Anderson said.