A new Landmark in town

By Kevin Wilson
Contributing editor

BURLINGTON—When you’ve been involved with some of the hottest and trendiest clubs in North America, such as the Viper Room in Los Angeles and Vancouver’s Skybar, how do you follow up?

If you’re impresario Steve Tokos, you move to Burlington and give this bedroom community a 50 kilometre drive down the Queen Elizabeth Way from Toronto a new Landmark.

The name is one of the few things Tokos and partners Mark West and Mark Jooris kept when they took over the Brant Street landmark, which occupies a 150-year-old building in the city’s west end.

“The building is structurally the same, but we’ve really cleaned it up, turning into much more of a metropolitan feel,” said Tokos, who brings to the table 21 years of hospitality experience.

Landmark’s redesign appears to be paying dividends. Landmark re-opened after renovations with two opening night soirees that drew large crowds, in spite of a massive winter storm that left the entire Golden Horseshoe under nearly 30 centimetres of snow.

“It went fantastically. Even with the big storm, we still had almost 100 people,” said Tokos.

The 130-seat restaurant occupies nearly 6,000 square feet, with a further capacity for up to 100 people on an adjacent patio. As well, an upper balcony area has ten tables that seat up to four people each, and is being used as either an overflow area or as a space for private functions.

The trio of Tokos, West and Jooris hope to capitalize on the continuing migration outward from Toronto into suburban communities by young professionals who are looking for affordable housing options, but still want big-city entertainment and dining options.

“Burlington is really starting to capture that market,” said Tokos.

Executive chef Gary Chin, who followed Tokos to Ontario from Alberta, helms Landmark’s kitchen. Chin’s menu splits between classic steakhouse offerings that feature 24-day aged beef, and modern takes on bistro classics, with Asian and Mediterranean influences.

“I personally think he’s an unbelievable chef,” said Tokos.

While the classics, such as a nine-ounce beef ribeye, served with field mushroom sauce and white truffle oil will set patrons back $32, the Landmark also has what Tokos describes as “small plates”.

Said Tokos, “Tapas has really been overdone. These are a little bigger than an appetizer, but they aren’t really tapas.”

Some of the Landmark’s signature items include a seared ahi tuna with a sweet soy glaze, served with vanilla braised apple compote, and wentzle duck crepes served with cucumber, hoisin, peanuts and scallions. One of Tokos’ favourites is the truffled lobster macaroni and cheese.

“The mac and cheese was on our lunch menu, but everyone loved it so much we’re putting on the dinner menu, too,” he said.

More accustomed to sourcing wine and liquor through the Alberta system, Tokos said he is still trying to “wrap his head around” the ins and outs of sourcing quality vintages in Ontario.

However, he said that he is currently applying a four-tier process to wines, with by the glass being the most affordable and available, followed by more recognizable vintages available either by the glass or by the bottle. The third tier involves wines at slightly higher price points, and the fourth tier is for high-end private reserve wines.