Chefs impress James Beard diners

NEW YORK—Another set of Nova Scotia chefs has returned with accolades from the James Beard House audience.

Michael Howell (Tempest), Martin Ruiz Salvador (Fleur de Sel), Craig Flinn (Chives), Dennis Johnston (Fid) and Ray Bear (Bear) presented a sampling of flavours from Nova Scotia Aug. 7 at the famed supper club in Manhattan.

“The response was spectacular. We were sold out for dinner and there was a waiting list,” Howell said. Each chef prepared one of five courses and for the 72 people in attendance. 

“To be invited to James Beard is recognition that all the hard work involved in the restaurant business does not go unnoticed by ones peers.”

Appetizers consisted of Nori-Wrapped Yellowfin Tuna and Avocado Tempura Medallions, Smoked Arctic Char Canapés with Cucumber, Mustard, and Chive Crème Fraîche, Wild Boar Country Pâté with Onion Confit and Brioche Crostini, Bacalao with Red Beets and Campari Jelly, Oulton’s Farm Smoked Duck with Sweet Pickled Rhubarb, and Cracked Mustard Seed Wafer. The wine pairing was Nova 2007, the first release from Benjamin Bridge Vineyards. 

For dinner, Ruiz Salvador prepared Roulade of Lunenburg Lobster, Nova Scotia Goat Cheese, House-Smoked Salmon, Bras d’Or Oysters Rockefeller Cromesquis, Corkum’s Island Bay Scallop Tartare, and Indian Point Mussel Bisque. It was served with L’Acadie Vineyards L’Acadie Star Reserve 2007.

This was followed by Howell’s Taproot Farm Heirloom Tomato Soup Trio served hot, warm, and cold, which was paired with Gaspereau Vineyards Riesling 2007.

Seared Atlantic Halibut with Walton Butter Beans, Chanterelles, and Summer Savory from Johnston came next and was served with Domaine de Grand Pré’s Vintners Reserve Ortega 2006.

Noggins Corner Farm Sour Cherry and Apple Cider Sorbet, Shepherd’s Pie with Braised Lamb Shank, Aged Gouda–Potato Purée, Minted Peas, and Olive Oil, Lamb Loin Confit with Mushroom Ragoût, Madeira, and Pickled Shallots was prepared by Flinn. Diners enjoyed a 2005 Marechal Foch Reserve from Benjamin Bridge, which is still not commercially available.

For those with room, Bear’s dessert consisted of Avondale Plum Cake with Wild Elderberry, Apple Slaw and Apple Wine Pop, Burnt Honey Panna Cotta with Strawberry Preserves and Black Pepper Shortbread, and Blueberry Ice Cream with Maple Praline and was paired with Domaine de Grand Pré Pomme D’Or 2007.

Taste of Nova Scotia executive director Janice Ruddock and Wines of Nova Scotia marketing coordinator Christine White also made the trip to New York.

“The event was fantastic and we have received phenomenal feedback about our food and wines — all the glasses brought back to the kitchen were empty,” White said.

New York food blogger Sexy Girl Eats, a.k.a. Rochelle Bilow, wrote about the dinner experience on her blog located at http://sexygirlseat.blogspot.com.